Past Time

It is past time that I recall and record the events associated with my travel to Suan Mokkh in southern Thailand, (near Chaiya and Sura Thani)where there is a retreat center and monastery devoted to the teaching of "mindfulness." On March 30 I traveled by "express" train west then south along the peninsula of Thailand, just a few miles across the mountains from Myanmar. First we passed rice fields, gradually changing to banana plantations and coconut orchards. I left at 8:00 and landed there about 16:30 with my one backpack suitcase in tow and an occasional smile on my face. As I disembarked I noticed similarly situated English speakers determined to go to the same place where I was headed, so I got their attention and we formed a loose group and made our way along the streets following a person who seemed to be expecting us and seemed to know where we were all going. Somehow four of us with our luggage crammed into a small car and we were taken to the monastery about 8 miles north (I think) of town. One guy couldn't fit so he came a little later somehow.
We were deposited in a heap in front of a small market area that spanned out on both sides of an old metal gate. Someone suggested that we needed perhaps to go through the gate and up the trail, they seemed to have been there before, or possibly they had dreamed it. I bought some water and took the straps out of my suitcase/backpack and stumbled up the rough trail about 1/4 mile until the reception area was clearly in view. I began reading various signs and notices, until I found a schedule, a sign in book, and got the general impression that I along with the dozen or so others by that time, were all in the right place. Someone was instructed to proceed to the men's dormitory and I determined to follow him. There was no charge for staying there the night before the retreat was to start, some of this I remembered from having read the web site prior to my arrival.
The trail to the dormitory was not marked, but we followed a well used path, avoiding roots and offering greetings to the two monkeys (apes?)that were having a late afternoon snack. This monastery was in a lush forest with considerable undergrowth and lush decaying leaves in between the few open areas that were variously used for drying laundry or walking meditation. The general impression was one of untidiness and disrepair, with some of the outbuildings crumbling in disuse or doors rusted shut.
Dormitories were somewhat better and looked habitable; we chose one and entered where there were obvious signs of use, found the mosquito nets in a box, the bamboo mats, on two flat wooden platforms along the length of the walls, screened openings for windows and two rows of posts holding the floor above. I spread out the mat and Kenbaba's (my son's)cushion camping mat, and hung the net, more or less following the pattern of the others. With that I was ready for a cozy night's sleep on the flat hard surface. There was a shower and a toilet nearby, so we were fixed for the night, which was still hot and muggy and I was drenched in sweat, so proceeded to change and clean myself before dark. I was rather uncomfortable with a pain in my back, which I had thought was a muscle cramp, but which I eventually deduced was in my liver or kidney because of all the medication I was taking for my heart issue. I finally resolved to stop taking the meds, and in fact the next two days brought relief from this pain, but not before spending an agonizing night trying to find a position to lie where I was not assaulted by serious back pain.
The morning came before daylight with the rather serious ringing of bells at 4:00 am. I got up and relieved by fatigue from trying to sleep, walked around and found no one doing anything in particular and went back to sleep for a couple hours. I was up for the new day before 7:00 am, as per the schedule, which didn't really seem to be much of a schedule, but finally a group formed and we determined that we were to walk across the highway via the pedestrian bridge and wait for a truck. We were too many for the truck but we were able to onload our luggage then walk the two miles or so along the road leading to the retreat compound. When we got there we sat in a mass waiting for further instructions which eventually came; we signed in, surrendered our passports, paid our bht2,000, and were given a key for our individual rooms, boys in one dorm and girls in another. There were about 100 attendees eventually, straggling in during the day, about half male/female, from probably 30 countries, who were required to speak English because the retreat was led in English. (I was in room 205. My job was to burn the daily garbage and used toilet paper.) We went to our rooms before lunch and hung our mosquito nets, laid our bamboo mats on the concrete shelf/bed and unpacked our luggage, settling in.
Lunch was rice and two different toppings, one with hop pepper, I chose the green bland one. This was typical each day as it turned out, with bananas and zesty cabbage which had obviously been grown organically.
We watched a video about Suan Mokkh, Buddhadasa Bikkhu the founder, and Anapanasati in the afternoon, then at 7:30 we met for "orientation". I had studied this kind of meditation so I was reasonably prepared for what was to come. After this main meeting, still before the first day, we were required to be silent, no talking among ourselves or during meetings except those few times when questions were invited. The silence is to reduce the quantity of distractions, reduce the arising of additional mental wanderings, eliminate any male/female interactions even between spouses, and practically, I suspect, it makes the administration of the retreat a whole lot easier because most questions people might have, and it was true for me, were answered in a day or two of patient listening. I think I fell asleep on the concrete bed in about 10 seconds after lying down, in spite of the unaccustomed hardness and the wood block pillow.
This was the beginning of my meditation retreat, which seemed like a mystery/treasure hunt, not knowing what to do next, but somehow finding a few clues that kept me going in the right direction with only minimum detours. The retreat itself comes in the next post.